2012 Subaru Legacy Air Conditioning Problem

I have a forester from 2012. I have a problem with the driver`s area warming up to the pint where I want to get out of the car. The outside weather varies from 48 to 115 when this happens. The last time it happened, I drove maybe 1 block before the driver`s area warmed up. The outside temperature was 61. No buttock warmers and no heat. All Temp dials were in a blue sky. I was at the dealership 2 times and they told me I had to drive with the air conditioning on 24×7 and with the recycling button all the time. After 10 years of taking exhanics, it doesn`t sound good. I don`t think it`s an air conditioning problem. I mean, I get very hot when I`m sitting in the driver`s seat at 55 degrees. It was extremely hot even at 115 degrees. It was warmer inside than outside.

I do not run the air conditioner at 48 to 70 degrees. I had passengers in my car and they couldn`t believe how hot it was while they were sitting well and cool in the passenger seat. Hello, I love this forum. I have a 2008 sedan. I had poor cooling for several months. Every time I fill the gas, it only works for a while. I was told it was a leak problem. Where can leaks come from? Check the engine compartment but found no leaks. I have a 2007 Subura Legacy car, I noticed this week that the air conditioner first worked intermittently and today it did not work at all.

In addition, the temperature/radio display may flash when the vehicle starts for the first time. Could I have an electrical problem? I have a forester from 2007, the air conditioner turned off and I tried to diagnose the problem to send it if it was something I could fix. When the air conditioner and fan are high, the air conditioner blows hot air. The compressor clutch never started to turn. Bought a DIY can with coolant and tried to charge the system. Manometer very read, in the red zone. So I took it to an oil change point and also had it tested on the low pressure side far in the red direction. Not overloaded, not charged, so is it air or what? I took it home, checked the fuses, everything was fine, jumped the compressor where the wiring harness is connected to the battery and the compressor started to turn. Could it be the relay switch, pressure switch, etc.? What`s my next step? Hello. Lots of great information on this talk page.

I own a 1992 Subaru SVX. In hot weather, the air conditioner works well, blowing fresh air for about half an hour, and then it blows only warm air. After stopping the car for a while, the problem will be temporarily solved, but after about 5-15 minutes, the air conditioner will only blow hot air again. One of the problems you will encounter when trying to maintain your air conditioning system is that it is a system with all kinds of possibilities, most of the time when your freezer stops working, you would not tackle it yourself without knowing the system and the right tools. Excellent forum posts. I appreciate them. I have a 2003 Subaru Outback H6 LL Bean Edition. Air conditioning problems. I couldn`t diagnose it, so I took it to the local Subaru dealership. They said he needed a compressor and a speed sensor (on the back of the compressor). So I bought the speed sensor from them and installed it.

I have not solved it. I bought a remanufactured compressor with a built-in speed sensor, and it seemed to work for a while, but the problem eventually came back. In both cases, I evacuated the system, sucked in the leaks and loaded with just the right amount of R-134a – 23 ounces. pressure Hi/Lo checked at 1500 rpm – 28psi lo, 245psi hi. In August 2012, I was at 115 degrees. The air conditioning was on and the air coming out of the air vents was cool. The area of the driver`s compartment, because so hot, I had to stop. Hi Justin, We have a 2010 Forester. A few years ago, the A/1c oscillated between cold and warm air. We took him to a repair shop and he said he was overloaded (but it happens), but he fixed it.

About a month ago, the air conditioner began to act; It will blow cold for maybe 10-20 minutes, and then it will start to blow hot. We finally took him to the same repair shop. We were told that the condensed had a pinhole and it was replaced. That did not solve the problem. We brought it back into the compressor was replaced and maybe valves and other things. Basically, we have a branded air conditioning unit and that didn`t solve the problem. We brought the car back to the store, they adjusted the factory settings so that they stopped at 80-49, which still didn`t solve the problem. I`m not inclined to mechanics, I don`t know much about cars, but it seems to me that the problem lies somewhere between the air conditioning and the ventilation slots. Every idea is greatly appreciated.

The car will come back, we paid enough for them to need to fix it. I have a 2008 Impreza and if I turn on the air conditioner, it works, then after a few minutes (although it is still “on”), there would be no more cold air. I had it diagonosed by a dealer and examined by a trusted mechanic. None of them could find a problem. The fre-on was recharged, which made the system less vulnerable to this “on/off” scenario. But it always happens. It is possible that an electrical problem is also the cause of air conditioning problems. First, try replacing the air conditioning fuse. If this solves the problem, so much the better! However, if the fuse burns again soon, or if replacing the fuse doesn`t do anything, your Subaru is likely to have deeper electrical problems that need to be diagnosed by experienced technicians. Are there any climatic problems that would lead to excessive heat production in the condenser coil? Overheating and air conditioning problems. I have a 2002 Outback H6 with 144,000 miles on it.

I drove the car about 10 miles away yesterday on surface roads and the highway here in Los Angeles. For the first three kilometers or so, I had the air conditioning on all the time and it worked well, very cold. and I also had NO problems with the overheating of the vehicle. I then went to lunch and the car sat for about an hour and a half. When I got back in the car and left, I turned on the air conditioning, noticed that it was not cold and the air smelled a little old and moldy. I was shocked because it worked well when I parked the car. So I turned the air conditioning and lowered the windows a little to stay cool. I then drove about 4 miles on the highway and returned maybe at about 50 MPH on the surface roads. Then suddenly, the car died at a traffic light. I restarted the car in a bit of confusion and fear because I was in beautiful and fast traffic in Los Angeles. In addition, the vehicle`s engine was working so well that I was amazed, which caused it to die suddenly. I then glanced at the temperature indicator and almost blew up a head gasket myself when I noticed that the needle was hot-fixed all along.

The car had to be overheated in the last 4 kilometers because I constantly check my gauges while driving. I stopped and let the car cool down for about an hour. As I searched under the car for water leaks to explain my overheating problem, I noticed what looked and was about 3 ounces of oil from the air conditioning system. It had sunk all over the ground. I then found that my radiator was about a gallon and a half of low water/antifreeze. I added this in the water and went home without any problems. Although when I parked and looked under the car again, I noticed that water/coolant was leaking all over the floor. The next day, I discovered that the culprit of the engine overheating problem was a leak/hole in the bottom pipe of the radiator.

I replaced the hose and rinsed the engine with clean water and filled it with a mixture of fresh water/antifreeze. The car now works very well and does not overheat. I was lucky that I didn`t burn through a head joint. The air conditioning seems to work well and silently, but it`s certainly not cold anymore. If I overheated the engine, I guess I also overheated the compressor or AC system even though it was off. After reading many previous articles, my plan of attack for the AC system is to replace the O-rings on the high and low side pipes when they hit the compressor.

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